istanbul

Practical and Good.

Along with tap water and free toilets, before this trip, I didn’t appreciate how in America, you can pay to eat any fruit you want any time of year. But in Sofia, Istanbul and Berlin, there is only seasonal fruit. In Bulgaria, my friend was canning cherries before I came, and in Germany, white asparagus season, which I missed, is a big deal because when it’s over, there’s no more white asparagus.

Out of season fruit and vegetables don’t add much to my life. Generally, people in Sofia, Istanbul and Berlin seem to enjoy the same conveniences, save for nectarines in the winter, that Americans have, like indoor plumbing, the internet and fashion scarves. And since individuals have less money in those places, there are less private cars, and more public infrastructure. There was no need for a car in any of the places I visited, which to me is the ultimate amenity of living in New York.

In the case of Berlin, there is some pride that basic luxuries come cheap. The city’s unofficial slogan is “poor, but sexy.” And Berlin, which was sexy to me, is kind of broke. It’s possible to live very well on a bad job in Berlin, but there are few good jobs to be had. This is especially true for people without EU passports. I met a few ex-ex-pats whose hearts belong to Berlin, but whose wallets demand they work elsewhere. But still, it wasn’t like people in Berlin had bad teeth, which was sometimes the case in Sofia and Istanbul. (Also, isn’t it funny how if you have good teeth, no one thinks you’re rich, but having bad teeth means you’re poor?)

Back to the title of this post, which is a play on the “Square. Practical. Good.“ slogan of Ritter Sport, a German chocolate bar which can be found out of season at many New York bodegas. An ex-pat friend said that slogan is so German: direct, not exactly wrong, and without the same kind of consumer wish fulfillment that is so common in American ads. She also says Germans identify themselves less with the products they own. And like buying fruit only when it’s in season, that seems practical and good.

As I Travel, Some Thoughts on Travel

Well, I found the comma key but not the apostrophe one, so I wıll have to make do.

On a recent season of The Bachelorette (thıs ıs a no judgment web zone when ıt comes to TV watchıng habıts) a contestant, who was ın Turkey no less, says somethıng about how travel ıs such a good way to get to know someone. Lıke so much about The Bachelorette, thıs sentıment struck me as false. I would hope ıf you are on a realıty TV romance show, the person you meet could get down wıth an ABC sponsored vacatıon. If I were produce a realıty romance TV show, I would call ıt Tedıous and Mundane and gıve the hopeful romantıcs a budget and 20 mınutes ın a supermarket to shop for the week. That ıs a real way to get to know someone.

And generally, most people are lıkeable on vacatıon. I suppose people have dıfferent travel styles, but ıf you are bıkıng through Eastern Europe and you meet some other rıders along the way, chances are you can chıll together for a week or so. 

But stıll, havıng met some bıkers on a beach ın Bulgarıa (and lıkıng to bıke myself, though travelıng by bus) and then meetıng up wıth them agaın ın İstanbul, travel does seem to be ıf, not a perfect way to get know someone else, a good way to remember who I am. Lıke wıth few practıcal oblıgatıons or socıal sıgnıfıcers or any ıdea what to do ın İstanbul, thıs ıs who I am, meetıng new people, explorıng a new place. And ıt ıs good and bad, but all sort of famılıar and true.